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La presse en parle : Where magazine

Les Grandes Marches

Overlooking the busy but historic Place de la Bastille, which joins the fascinating Marais neighbourhood to trendy eastern Paris, the sleek Les Grandes Marches is one of the liveliest brasseries in Paris and one of those rare precious addresses in the city that are open daily and where you can turn up for a nice meal at the last minute without a reservation. The name refers to both the elegant grand staircase in the brasserie itself, which was smartly remodelled in 2012, and also to the stone steps that lead up to the entrance of the Opera Bastille just next door. ln addition to the really good-value 36-euro business menu, which mcludes an aperitif, starter, main course, cheese, dessert, coffee or tea and half a bottle of wine or mineral water, the fun of this place comes from its warm friendly efficient waiters and the fact that you can stop by whenever you like for a feast of freshly shucked oysters, a steak tartare or a more substantial meal. Stopping by recently for dinner with jet-lagged friends who'd just arrived from Boston, we started off with an excellent tuna tartare, classic French onion soup, and a plate of velvety smoked salmon, and then tucked into a meltingly tender beef filet with Béarnaise sauce, sole meunière, and choucroute garni (sauerkraut garnished with sausage and pork, an Alsatian classic). Noticing how quickly we ate the golden crunchy frites that came with the steak, the waiter obligingly brought us more without even being asked, which is just the sort of attention to detail that makes this such a pleasant address. Desserts are good too, don't miss the pain perdu with salted-butter caramel ice-cream or maybe the Baba au Rhum.
AL
6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 0I 43 42 90 32

Where magazine - Décembre 2013

Brasserie française traditionnelle
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